Ceja!
Does Merlot deserve the bad rap it has? The most recent round of insults to the fruit started with the movie Sidways (which I still haven't seen). In a scene during the movie one of the main characters throws a fit about the possibility of drinking Merlot during dinner. Even before that, however, Merlot has been seen as "wine for wimps" by some.
I managed to find the exact quote from the movie:
Jack: If they want to drink Merlot, we're drinking Merlot.
Miles Raymond: No, if anyone orders Merlot, I'm leaving. I am NOT drinking any fucking Merlot!
Merlot is a medium-bodied, "fleshy" varietal that's often blended with Cabernet. French Bordeaux wines are blends, and Merlot is a big part of their make-up. In fact Chateau Petrus (very famous wine) consists of almost all Merlot grapes. If it's good enough to go into expensive French Bordeaux is it good enough for the casual wine drinker, or even a wine geek, to drink the pure version?
I've had a couple of opportunities to try Merlot recently. The first was the 2000 Arrowood Merlot I reviewed a few weeks ago. Even though I gave that wine a good review, when we tried is at the recent BBQ it just didn't seem to belong. It felt flat, bland, soft and mushy by comparison to the Dobra Syrah or the Sebastiani Cabernet. Is this the fault of the wine or the grape?
At the recommendation of NapaWonk (hope he likes the new nickname) I picked up some wines from Ceja as part of my internet buying explorations. Those are far from over by the way; I recently read an article in the New York Times about the best sites to buy wine from (not direct from the wineries themselves) and plan to try a couple of them out and share my experiences here. NapaWonk hasn't steered me wrong yet so I got one of everything from Ceja, including the Merlot.
The 2001 Ceja Sonoma-Carneros Merlot is 13.9% A.B.V, right in the middle of the expected range. It has an aroma distinctly Merlot-ish to it. I'm starting to be able to tell the standard varieties apart now but I'm still stumped by things like a Grenache, Barbera and sometimes even Syrah. This one is distinct enough that I can tell right away it's not Cabernet or Zinfandel. The smell isn't exceptionally fruity but you immediately know that this is made from grapes. Words are failing me here - it smells like Merlot, and a good one.
It passes all the visual tests, color is a fine purple. The initial flavor feels light, almost delicate. Distinctly Merlot-like yet again and the source of complaints from folks who expect more impact from a wine. There is a hint of grape soda to it, or a lollipop. Definitely evocative of industrial grape-flavoring. It finishes with a distinct tingly acid finish and a long aftertaste of tannins. Overall I feel this is a good wine, and I enjoy it, but I would pass over buying it to accompany dinner. It lacks impact and character. I would match it with fish or something equally light. Here's your gratuitous analogy of the day: Merlot is like a beanbag, mushy and very comfortable but not stylish and bad for your posture.
Would I buy this again? Yes if I had to buy Merlot. If I had a choice I'd pick up a Cabernet, Syrah or blend for the same price. For now at least this variety is going to get a skeptical glance when I'm shopping.
I also tried the 2001 Ceja Cabernet Sauvignon. It was a bit disappointing, honestly, having many of the same characteristics of the Merlot (mushy). I expected a bit more based on the price I paid for the wine (about $30). If you see the Ceja and feel like giving it a try expect a good, easy-drinking but not very powerful wine.
I managed to find the exact quote from the movie:
Jack: If they want to drink Merlot, we're drinking Merlot.
Miles Raymond: No, if anyone orders Merlot, I'm leaving. I am NOT drinking any fucking Merlot!
Merlot is a medium-bodied, "fleshy" varietal that's often blended with Cabernet. French Bordeaux wines are blends, and Merlot is a big part of their make-up. In fact Chateau Petrus (very famous wine) consists of almost all Merlot grapes. If it's good enough to go into expensive French Bordeaux is it good enough for the casual wine drinker, or even a wine geek, to drink the pure version?
I've had a couple of opportunities to try Merlot recently. The first was the 2000 Arrowood Merlot I reviewed a few weeks ago. Even though I gave that wine a good review, when we tried is at the recent BBQ it just didn't seem to belong. It felt flat, bland, soft and mushy by comparison to the Dobra Syrah or the Sebastiani Cabernet. Is this the fault of the wine or the grape?
At the recommendation of NapaWonk (hope he likes the new nickname) I picked up some wines from Ceja as part of my internet buying explorations. Those are far from over by the way; I recently read an article in the New York Times about the best sites to buy wine from (not direct from the wineries themselves) and plan to try a couple of them out and share my experiences here. NapaWonk hasn't steered me wrong yet so I got one of everything from Ceja, including the Merlot.
The 2001 Ceja Sonoma-Carneros Merlot is 13.9% A.B.V, right in the middle of the expected range. It has an aroma distinctly Merlot-ish to it. I'm starting to be able to tell the standard varieties apart now but I'm still stumped by things like a Grenache, Barbera and sometimes even Syrah. This one is distinct enough that I can tell right away it's not Cabernet or Zinfandel. The smell isn't exceptionally fruity but you immediately know that this is made from grapes. Words are failing me here - it smells like Merlot, and a good one.
It passes all the visual tests, color is a fine purple. The initial flavor feels light, almost delicate. Distinctly Merlot-like yet again and the source of complaints from folks who expect more impact from a wine. There is a hint of grape soda to it, or a lollipop. Definitely evocative of industrial grape-flavoring. It finishes with a distinct tingly acid finish and a long aftertaste of tannins. Overall I feel this is a good wine, and I enjoy it, but I would pass over buying it to accompany dinner. It lacks impact and character. I would match it with fish or something equally light. Here's your gratuitous analogy of the day: Merlot is like a beanbag, mushy and very comfortable but not stylish and bad for your posture.
Would I buy this again? Yes if I had to buy Merlot. If I had a choice I'd pick up a Cabernet, Syrah or blend for the same price. For now at least this variety is going to get a skeptical glance when I'm shopping.
I also tried the 2001 Ceja Cabernet Sauvignon. It was a bit disappointing, honestly, having many of the same characteristics of the Merlot (mushy). I expected a bit more based on the price I paid for the wine (about $30). If you see the Ceja and feel like giving it a try expect a good, easy-drinking but not very powerful wine.
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