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Wine and Food in Arlington

A page about the best places to find good wine, whether it's a store or a restaurant.

Name:WineGeek
Location:Arlington, Virginia

Thursday, July 20, 2006

The Future of Wine

There's a lot of talk these days about climate change, in particular global warming. Whatever the cause it's pretty well established that the world is getting warmer. Almost all of the current models show a mean temperature increase of about 1C by 2050 at the latest. I'm going to be a bit flippant and ignore the more severe implications of this and talk about what global warming means for the future of wine.

Changing temperatures will affect what areas are best for grape vines of all varieties. A single degree of change will mean hotter summer days and milder winters. Moderately high temperature concentrates sugars in grapes (if they're well-tended) but also results in smaller yields. The resulting wines can be incredible if the winemaker has a good deal of skill. If the temperature gets too high photosynthesis stops entirely and the grapes don't develop. The net result is that quantities will decrease, resulting in higher prices. Varities that do better in cold weather may suffer under these conditions, depending on whether the overnight temperatures are also high.

Changes in rainfall will have a much more severe impact on wine growing areas. If there's not enough rain irrigation will be required to allow the grapes to mature, increasing cost of both infrastructure and labor. Low rainfall also results in smaller yields; quantities go down, prices go up. More rain (up to a point) may be good for the overall health of grapes but may adversely affect their flavor. Rain at the wrong time of year can cause the grapes to swell and burst, making them unsuitable for wine making. Basically a "small" change in rainfall patterns such as an extra wet week every year can severely impact winemaking.

The amount of cloud cover over the year will affect the rate of photosynthesis and hence the production of sugars. Plants are amaazing engines able to turn solar energy into chemical energy. The more solar energy available, the better - except of course when the adverse effects of that energy outweigh the benefits. UV and other short-wavelength radiation damages DNA, harmful for basically everything grapes included. Since the ozone hole seems to be slowly repairing itself we're more likely to see a dearth of sunlight rather than an excess. This will lower sugar content (less energy!) and probably lower the overall quality of the grapes. Today the vines are carefully pruned to maximize the production of grapes and minimize the "vegetative" growth in other words leaves. Lastly some believe that grapes should be exposed to some sunlight every day, to enhance the production of monomeric anthocyanins and flavonols. Those are fancy words for "flavor". Changes in sunlight will require vintners to relearn how much pruning is required, when the optimal harvest time will be, etc. As in most things learning new things takes time, and that will cost money.

Last but certainly not least is humidity. Humidity is a major concern in grape-growing because of mildew (technically Uncinula necator conidia) and other fungus. The article I linked above shows that the higher the humidity, the greater the growth of conidia in roughly linear fashion. Some people have managed to make wines from infested grapes but it's not easy. In general crops that mildew are ruined. This is the greatest immediate threat to wine-growing regions along the west coast, especially Napa and Sonoma. A small change in wind-patterns could increase average humidity by a few percent. That's going to translate into a few percent higher growth of fungus, and a few percent smaller sized crop. The net effect is a few percent higher price for wine.

Overall these changes are going to result in higher prices for the same quality of wine, at least on the U.S. West Coast. I imagine that the story is similar for New York, Virginia, Australia, South Africa and parts of South America. In many ways this is the best time ever to purchase wine; the quality is outstanding and the prices are low. I don't think it's going to last that much longer (another 20 years, unless something changes). Stock up on the 2002-2004 Cabernet now.

There are winners as well as losers when the climate changes - some new regions are going to open up to high quality grapes. Eventually these may produce high quality wines which we can enjoy and chat about. It takes a while to get it right so I wouldn't expect to see "McKinley Vineyards Alaska Pinot" until 2050 or 2060.

Monday, July 10, 2006

Matanzas Creek is probably the best-smelling winery in all of Sonoma County, California. This is due to the wonderful lavender farm which sprawls along the approach to the tasting room off of Bennett Valley Road. Technically this is Santa Rosa, but since the grapes are from Sonoma no one is going to complain about a bit of geography. I also admire their label design which is vaguely Celtic and vaguely abstract. It's minimalist, but not cold. To me it recalls the famous words of Einstein;

Make everything as simple as possible, but not simpler.


The thing about Matanzas Creek (named after the nearby creek and reservoir, startingly) is that they make really good wines that are sold for $10 more than they should be. Everything they offer is in the $30 range. Most wines from Sonoma, other than reserves and odd lots, are in the $20 range. Matanzas is good enough to warrant an extra dollar or two per bottle; I'd gladly pay $22 for their Chardonnay or Merlot. Yet they always price their wines around $30, regardless of vintage or varietal. I've come to the (reluctant) conclusion that Matanzas Creek is simply overpriced.

There are literally hundreds of wines that are darn good in the $20-$30 range, and pushing yourself out of that crowd requires either extreme confidence or significant arrogance. I really can't justify buying their product anymore. After having tried $15 Merlot from Arrowood (still my favorite in this price range) and $15 Sauvignon Blanc from South Africa's Allan Scott that's more interesting than any California Chardonnay I've tried in years, the $30 Matanzas Chardonnay seems bland, boring and overpriced. It's just not worth it.

Rants aside I do have a couple of reviews for you. First a Sangiovese from Napa, the 2002 Atlas Peak Sangiovese from Napa Valley, California. Since I tasted some darn fine Sangiovese in Amador County I decided to try this wine to see how Napa stacks up against the competition in the mid-price range. I found that Amador wins hands down. The Atlas Peak was an OK wine with moderate fruit and acidity typical of Sangiovese. It failed to add any unique character or to stand out from the crowd. If you find yourself in the unusual situation of picking a Sangiovese from a wine list, and you see the Atlas Peak, it's sure to be middle of the road. Perhaps in some odd way that advice may help you.

Some of you may recall my review of the Casillero de Diablo Carmenere a couple of weeks ago; to summarize, I thought it was a great deal at $10. When I came across their Chardonnay last week I bought it on the strength of their other wine. I found it to be a strong contender in the price range (<$15), easily beating well over half the field. In other words, it's well above the median and mean in terms of quality and flavor. I recommend it as an alternative to California Chardonnay in the same price range if you can find it.

Farewell!

Wednesday, July 05, 2006

Bring Me Everything!

The planned tasting ran from about 3 to 5 this past Sunday. The unplanned party/tasting ran on until 1:30 in the morning when folks said "goodbye, great party, we really should do this again some time, too bad we have to go to work in the morning". I'm happy to report that a vast amount of good wine got consumed and that fun was had by all.

I'll start off my summary with a roll call of sorts. It's traditional for me to give everyone nicknames and it's a way to cut down on spam and other unsolicited contacts. I apologize that the names are boring, but I don't want lose any friends just over a blog posting! In no particular order:

  • Wife My lovely and charming wife!

  • TheBoss Knows more about wine than I do and is kind enough to share

  • TravelGal Friend of TheBoss, wonderful person

  • Sheena Looks like the beautiful warrior princess and probably won't mind me saying so

  • LaughingGal Has a laugh so awesome that people pay to hear it

  • Nemesis Enjoys wine and knows quite a bit about wineries here in VA

  • AnarchyUK Really deserves a better nickname than this one

  • LegalNoob Studying to be a lawyer for unknown reasons

  • Clyde My lack of originality is showing

  • Glassfan Always has a smile to warm the room

  • TowerDweller Another Ballston-area resident we enjoy seeing


The second lineup is the wines that were designated for the tasting itself. We started off with 5 items on the list. That quickly grew to 9 since TheBoss, Nemesis and Glassfan brought bottles with them. I got all fancy and made up programs, which ended up just confusing folks since the new arrivals were interspersed with the originals. The actual tasting order went something like this:
  • 2005 Vino Frizzante Prosesco di Coffi Trevisiani (Italy)

  • 2004 Jardin Sauvignon Blanc (South Africa)

  • 2004 Columbia Winery Gewurztraminer (Washington State, US)

  • 2005 Chateau Ste Michelle Eroica Riesling (Washington State, US)

  • 1999 Linden Hardscrabble Chardonnay (Virginia, US)

  • 2002 Saintsbury Reserve Pinot Noir (California, US)

  • 1987 Ridge Lytton Springs Zinfandel (California, US)

  • 1998 Joseph Phelps Insignia (California, US)















There was also a nice spread of food to try with the wines as palate cleansers and experiments. At the start of the event the table looked very nice!
After suitable time to ponder the matter I had everyone give me their opinion of the best of the bunch. Most agreed that of the reds, the Insignia was the best. I agree with that, it was a pretty extraordinary wine that would do wonders for your next fancy dinner. If, that is, you happen to have won the lottery or come into some large inheritance. It's very expensive; if it had been anything but extraordinary I would have been disappointed. The Ridge and Saintsbury got high marks as well and were quality wines. It was pretty amazing how well the Ridge held up. 20 years is at the high end for aging a non-Bordeaux. TheBoss felt (and I agree with him) that the Saintsbury could have used a few years of aging. Among the whites the Washington Gewurztraminer and South African Sauvignon Blanc were popular but opinion here was spread. Some enjoyed the Riesling more, and I was in the minority voting for the Chardonnay (gasp!) and the Prosesco. It was about this time the table started looking a little ragged.

Paying attention during the tasting process was kind of strenuous, so we had to have a glass of wine to chill out. That went on for some time - approximately 8 hours. I probably could mention every single wine that was tried during this period but I'll skip to the good stuff. The 2005 Allan Scott Sauvignon Blanc (New Zealand) was wonderful. Very highly recommended. The Dobra Zinfandel was a great contrast to the Ridge even though almost 20 years separated them. There was a distinctive difference in style that was fun to talk about and both wines were very good. A 2005 white Bordeaux, the Chateau Les Arromaus was also very good and stood out from the crowd. The total damage was quite extensive.

I'll certainly do this again some time, perhaps next year. Hopefully I will be a bit better prepared with note cards and the like to get more impressions on paper. Having them relayed verbally at the end of the tasting, and then trying more wine, is definitely not a good recipe for the accurate recall of details.